Last week was Milan's story. This is its summary, together with the early-September fabric fair and the leg that begins in Paris. One thread runs through it all: the season is read in colours and materials before it is read in shapes.
Colour beats neutrals
If you were waiting for another round of beige, you're out of luck. The Milan spring/summer 2027 shows swap neutrals for sky blue, pale pink, plum, purple and pastel green. According to Numero, the quiet luxury era is over: Italy is choosing declared glamour.
Retailers confirm the direction: reporting on the collections, WWD notes that colour outweighed neutrals, whether in solid blocks or as an unexpected accent, in combinations both vivid and muted. For a boutique that means rethinking the assortment: not one coloured piece among many neutrals, but a considered palette.
Lingerie goes daywear, and sheer becomes a way to show craft
Lingerie leaves the drawer. Again per Numero, lingerie-inspired elements become daywear and the line between nightwear and evening wear thins. Alongside come semi-sheer fabrics, satin and lace, next to nylon, wool and waxed cloth.
Sheerness isn't only about the neckline: in the retailer view gathered by WWD, it is a way of staging craftsmanship. A fabric that lets you see what's underneath demands good work even where it usually goes unseen: seams, hems, insides.
Première Vision looks at materials
From 1 to 3 September Première Vision gathered over 800 exhibitors at Paris Nord Villepinte — yarns, fabrics, leather, accessories and manufacturing — on earlier dates than usual, as FashionUnited reports.
What matters to buyers is a web app, developed with Paris Good Fashion, that helps assess materials by combining quality, market availability, technological maturity and environmental impact. There is also a new Prospective space for material innovation and emerging trends. Choosing a fabric becomes a data point, not just a feeling.
Paris takes the baton
From 28 September to 6 October the women's spring/summer 2027 fashion week moves to Paris, with physical shows by invitation, livestreams and digital presentations, according to the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
For sellers, the question to carry to Paris is simple: does Milan's bold palette hold up outside Italy? We'll know in the coming days.
In brief
- Colour replaces neutrals: sky blue, pale pink, plum, purple, pastel green.
- Lingerie and sheers move into the day: craftsmanship is visible.
- Fabric choice moves to data: quality, availability, impact.
- Paris, until 6 October, tests Milan's direction.